With Milan and Paris menswear fashion weeks over now, it's time to reflect I think. I've had a browse through some of the images from the shows, unfortunately I wasn't there, and it looks like a good summer next year for us gents! Having said that, it's been the most unassuming and surprising designers that have caught my eye for next season. It's rather refreshing not having to talk about, dare I say it, my favourite, Westwood or the usual Margiela or Rick Owens. I know, it scares me too!
Obviously I still love Westwood, she'll always be a part of my wardrobe, but I do feel like I've seen the same stuff for many a season now (OMG, can't believe I just typed that - BREATH) and if you ask me, I'm not all that impressed with Sarah Burton's first stand alone McQueen collection (don't hate me). I think she had to be careful for certain reasons, but really studying the outfits, I'm not sure I'd want to buy any of it. I did have a chat with my fashionable friend Sophie and she did point out that the way the jackets are fastened is a lovely detail, and I agree. If you're talking detail, McQueen is always up there. It just looked a bit... grey to me.
Back to the good stuff. To pick apart men's shows by trend is seemingly a bit harder than the women's shows and let's face it, a lot of men don't actually 'do' trends. They just do 'that looks alright with that'. But, to go back to trends for just a minute, I have seen lots of lovely greens and blues on the catwalks, especially mint green, which is now my favourite colour - fickle I know! Also, the best news/trend of all... HARDLY ANY SKINNY TROUSERS! Loving all the wide leg and baggier shapes. It's all about cruise-wear now. I'm SO happy.
D&G surprised me. I don't like tennis particularly, ball games are progressively getting more boring for me, but their Wimbledon-ready collection put a smile on my face! The greens, dusty pink and blues really bought the collection to life. Every box was ticked for me!
Paul Smith was another shocker! Ordinarily I'd associate PS with classic tailoring and a ditsy floral print thrown in. Next season it's all about the rock star for the super brand. Lots of boots, (unfortunately) skinny shaped trousers, graphic tees, bold prints, pussy bows and just lovely relaxed, versatile pieces. Never thought I'd say that! Love to be surprised.
Loved the colours at Calvin Klein, again more gorgeous greens and multi-hued blues:
And these GORGEOUS desert-ready, super relaxed suits from Bottega Veneta, complete (obviously not the price tags) with bags too. I admire these whole ready-to-wear outfits in one look. Yum.
I was really impressed by the very Western collection that Junya Watanabe sent down the catwalk - he obviously loves a bit of boating! I often yawn at nautical collections, but this caught my eye. Some of the coloured stripes were really interesting and the summer duffles will be widely coveted I'm sure. My only criticism (sorry to be negative) - why all the HORIZONTAL stripes?? I can only do vertical, it's more slimming!
And the biggest, fattest, hugest question mark for the season? Givenchy's head to toe leopard print mess, I mean look... is it one Joan Collins/Bette Lynch step too far?? You decide!
Vivienne Westwood - she used to be fun and creative but I fear her collections have looked the same for about the past three years... I do have some Westwood pieces but at the moment it's not really a look I'm feeling.
ReplyDeleteMcQueen - it's a difficult role Sarah is playing but I think she is doing really well. She managed to keep the collection McQueen-esque, and OK she didn't break any new ground really, but she did add subtle changes that were her own. Have you seen her womenswear precollection yet? There are a couple of stunners there, and some nonos...
Please, never say a bad word about Ricardo Tisci. His Givenchy world is a dark, Catholic place where I wish to reside forever. Maybe without the religion part...
xxxxx
Duck